Cao Bằng Cuisine Series - Part 14: Agarwood Fish

When mentioning Ban Gioc Waterfall, people not only remember the majestic beauty of one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Vietnam but also recall the grilled fragrant fish – a famous specialty that carries the unique flavor of Cao Bang land.

Fragrant fish is a renowned delicious fish species that lives abundantly in the area at the foot of Ban Gioc Waterfall, along the Quay Son River and the Bac Vong region. In the past, this fish species was very common, and local people could easily catch and sell it at Trung Khanh market. However, over time, the number of fish has decreased, so now fragrant fish has become a rare specialty.

The reason this fish species is called “fragrant fish” is that they often live in areas with fragrant trees growing along the river and primarily eat the roots and decaying leaves of the fragrant tree. This has created a very special flavor for the fish meat – lightly fragrant, sweet, and when enjoyed, it carries a unique aroma that is hard to find in any other fish.

Every afternoon by the Quay Son River, local people, from adults to children, often row boats to find areas with many fragrant trees to fish. Fragrant fish usually live in deep waters, so catching them is not simple. Especially, the most effective bait is fragrant leaves – a familiar bait that only local people truly understand.

Fragrant fish caught right at the Ban Gioc Waterfall area is always considered the best. Because they live in the strong flowing water at the foot of the waterfall, the fish must constantly move, making their meat very firm, low in fat, naturally sweet, and not at all fishy.

Among many cooking methods, the most loved dish remains grilled fragrant fish. This is the way to preserve the original flavor of the fish best. After being caught from the river, the fish will be cleaned, gutted, and then stuffed with various herbs and spices such as onion, dill, chili, ginger… to enhance its deliciousness. After that, the fish is wrapped in fresh banana leaves and placed on a charcoal stove to grill slowly over medium heat.

When the fish is cooked, the banana leaf layer is lightly charred, and the enticing aroma spreads. The fish meat inside is white and soft but still retains its firmness; when unwrapped and dipped in a bit of pure fish sauce, one can clearly feel the natural sweetness, light fragrance, and especially the very unique fragrant aroma.

It is the simplicity in the cooking method along with the unique flavor that makes grilled fragrant fish a dish that many diners remember long after tasting it. This is not only a delicious dish of Ban Gioc Waterfall but also an essential part of the culinary culture of the Northeast border region.

If you have the chance to visit Ban Gioc Waterfall, don’t forget to try grilled fragrant fish – a simple specialty that is enough to impress anyone with the unforgettable flavor of Cao Bang’s mountains and forests.