Come to Ha Giang to enjoy Au Tau porridge – The “unique” porridge dish in the stone plateau
In the chilly weather of the northernmost region of the country, there is a dish that makes visitors both curious and eager: Au Tau porridge. From a type of tuber that is originally toxic, the highland people have skillfully transformed it into a famous specialty porridge of Ha Giang. This is a traditional dish of the Mong people, known for its characteristic bitterness that becomes more delicious and sweet the more you eat.
Not only is it a warm dish for the night, Au Tau porridge also tells a story about folk experiences, patience, and the culinary essence of the highland ethnic groups.
1. Overview of Au Tau tuber – From “poison” to specialty
Au Tau porridge is named after the main ingredient – Au Tau tuber (also known as Au Tau). This is a type of plant commonly grown in the cold mountainous regions of Ha Giang. Fresh Au Tau tubers are highly toxic, and if used incorrectly, they can be dangerous.
However, thanks to the long-standing experience of the Mong people, Au Tau, after being soaked and simmered thoroughly, will completely eliminate toxins, becoming a precious ingredient in both cuisine and folk medicine. According to oral tradition, processed Au Tau tubers have effects such as: relieving colds, relaxing muscles and joints, reducing bone pain, and helping to sleep deeply and soundly.
A warm bowl of Au Tau porridge on the Dong Van stone plateau (Source: Peace Tour)
In folk medicine, there are also recipes for soaking Au Tau in alcohol to treat numbness in hands and feet, and rheumatism. The plant is usually planted in December of the lunar calendar and harvested around July to October of the solar calendar.
From a traditional dish of the Mong people, Au Tau porridge has now become a must-try specialty when traveling to Ha Giang.
2. The ideal time to enjoy Au Tau porridge
Unlike many other porridge dishes, Au Tau porridge is usually eaten at night. Due to its relaxing and sleep-inducing properties, this dish is considered a warm “medicine” for cold nights in the highlands.
In Dong Van town, when night falls, porridge stalls begin to light their fires. In the chill of the stone plateau, sitting by the fire, slurping a hot bowl of porridge, feeling the bitterness gradually dissolve on the tip of the tongue and then turn into a rich, sweet taste in the throat – that is an unforgettable experience.
Perhaps no dish is more suitable for the atmosphere of a highland night than a steaming bowl of Au Tau porridge.
3. The journey to explore the long-standing Au Tau porridge shop in Dong Van
If you have the chance to visit Dong Van, you can find the Au Tau porridge shop Moc Mien – a familiar address for locals and tourists alike.
Located near the Old Quarter of Dong Van, the shop opens at 6 PM every evening. The space is rustic and simple, just like the people here. In front of the door is a fire that is always burning, a pot of white porridge boiling vigorously, next to it is a pot of Au Tau simmering thoroughly, along with pork sausage, minced meat, eggs, and herbs prepared and ready.
The shop has been operating since 1996, becoming a familiar stop for diners every night.
Porridge is eaten with pork sausage, and you can add chicken eggs or duck eggs (Source: Traveloka)
4. Ingredients that create the soul of the porridge
A complete bowl of Au Tau porridge usually includes:
- Soft-cooked Au Tau tuber
- Regular rice mixed with yellow flower sticky rice
- Crispy roasted pork sausage
- Stir-fried minced pork
- Chicken eggs or duck eggs
- Coriander, perilla, green onions, pepper
The rice is cooked until soft and smooth. The pork sausage is chosen from locally raised pigs, roasted over fire to make the skin crispy and fragrant. Each ingredient is prepared separately before being combined in a complete bowl of porridge.
Each ingredient is prepared separately before being combined in a complete bowl of porridge (Source: UEH Youth)
5. The meticulous and careful preparation process
Au Tau porridge is not a dish that can be cooked hastily. Dried Au Tau tubers must:
- Be soaked in rice washing water for about 10 hours
- Be washed clean
- Be simmered continuously for many hours until soft and tender
If not simmered long enough, toxins will remain, causing numbness on the tongue when eaten. The cook must taste it to check. If there is still a tingling sensation, it must be simmered until completely safe.
Au Tau porridge from Ha Giang - A unique specialty of the Mong ethnic group (Source: MIA.vn)
White porridge and Au Tau are cooked in separate pots. When a customer orders, the seller will scoop the porridge, add Au Tau, pork sausage, minced meat, eggs, and sprinkle herbs on top.
Patience and experience are the decisive factors for the quality of the dish.
6. Distinctive flavor – Bitter but not harsh
The most special point of Au Tau porridge is its bitterness. But it is not an unpleasant bitterness; it is a mild bitterness with a rich aftertaste that becomes sweeter the more you eat.
- The bitter richness of Au Tau
- The fattiness of pork sausage
- The richness of minced meat
- The strong aroma of perilla
- The slight spiciness of pepper
All blend together to create a bowl of golden, smooth, and warm porridge from hand to heart.
7. Notes when enjoying Au Tau porridge
Due to the naturally toxic ingredients, Au Tau porridge:
- Should not be prepared at home without experience
- Should be eaten at reputable shops
- Should not be eaten too much at once
Because of its complexity and high technical demands, Au Tau porridge is not just a dish, but also a testament to the folk knowledge of the highland people.
From a type of tuber with toxicity, the people of Ha Giang have transformed Au Tau into a famous specialty dish. Au Tau porridge not only intrigues visitors with the name “bitter porridge” but also captivates with its distinctive flavor and the cultural story behind it.
If you have the chance to set foot in Ha Giang, don’t forget to spend a chilly evening enjoying a hot bowl of Au Tau porridge – a unique culinary gift amidst the majestic stone plateau.
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Source: Traveloka